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View Full Version : Contributed BY Valvetronics and Freyr Evaluating/buying a guitar


Freyr
August 8th, 2005, 10:44 AM
Ok, so a lot of people on here post about "What guitar should I buy with x amount of money, I play this style"

So I figured I'd write my knowledge down and add onto it if anyone has any other suggestions.

Part One: Style

"I play X style of music, what guitar should I get?"

Well, this cannot be solved so easily. As buying a guitar should be all about feel. But, that being said, not too many jazz players are going to play a B.C. Rich Warlock. (Actually, no-one should play a BC Rich, but that's besides the point)

Generally, if you're into playing fast you want something with a thin neck that gives you comfortable access to the upper frets. A lot of Metal players play Ibanez's, Jackson’s or ESP's because of the Thin-U or "Wizard" style necks.

Also, look into the pickups/woods on the guitar. Humbuckers have a nice fat tone while single-coils provide a raw bright tone. Maple guitars are bright and Mahogany guitars are dark in tone.
Passive pickups play off of the tone woods in your guitar and will react different to each guitar you try, while active pickups have a preamp in them and will sound the same in each guitar.

Part Two: Money Factor

"I have X amount of dollars, what should I buy?"

Well, there will always be a better guitar. But, you should go and play every guitar you can get your hands on, don't even look at the price. Put aside 4-5 guitars that you feel play/sound the best and then (because they're probably way out of your price range if you're asking this question) take note of what kinds of guitars they are. The woods used, the construction and whatever else.
Generally, Ibanez makes great guitars for the price range. But if you fancy something like a Jackson (Shape Wise) you could always check out a company like Ran who makes the same deal, only cheaper for the amount of quality you're getting. Same with Agile, they make great Les Paul guitars for less money then the Gibson’s.
ESPs are also wise to check out in the price range, they generally come with high end parts and great construction.

Part Three: Brand names

"I heard Gibson’s where the best ever! Should I get one?!"

No. Don't ever buy according to brand name. It's a waste of money. While it is true that these companies get to be as big as they are for having great quality in the first place, you usually pay big for it. You can get a totally custom guitar for $5000... Same price as some of the Gibson Artist series. (I'm using Canadian Prices here, might be off.)

Another thing, is that someone will always suggest the same guitar for someone new starting out on guitar. Dare to be different. If you see that guitar over on the shelf that looks amazing, the price is good, but you've never heard of it before (What is it, a Godin? :P) check it out, if it plays great... well, great! It it sounds great, well hell yeah!

But, on the other hand, brandname guitars will hold their value if you ever decide to resell them. In fact, if you keep the guitar in mint condition you could even gain money back (look at the 1959 Les Pauls for example)

Part Four: Construction

The only thing I can say is find out what kind of necks/woods you like. It's all personally taste. Les Pauls have Set Neck, Most high-end guitars have Neck-Though. Most low end guitars have bolt-on. Not always true, but find out what you like.

Part Five: Actually Testing the Guitars

Ok, so this is really the only part that counts.

First of all, when you take the guitar off the shelf, don't plug it in. In fact, tap on it. With your knuckles. Make sure the wood is consistent all the way though. Check for density. Flip it over and run your hand down the back of the neck and feel for sharp edges from the fret wire.

Still don't plug in. Sit down and play some acoustic work with it. Check to see how loud the guitar is not plugged in. Check natural harmonics up and down the neck. The tone of a guitar not plugged in will be roughly the same as the tone of a guitar with passive pickups. If the guitar sounds bad unplugged... then it probably won't sound good plugged in.

So plug into an amp on clean setting, dial in a tone. Play some clean licks (if you're buying a guitar for a first time bring a friend who can play for you). If you like what you're hearing that's great... but try the other pickups first. Then try the volume knob, how responsive is it? Try the tone knob too.

Now click over to distortion. Now, depending on the amp you're using (try to use something similar to your set up) see how well the notes resonate while picking though chords. Go though the harmonics again. Make sure the intonation is correct. If the guitar has a whammy bar now is the time to abuse it! Pull some Dimebag licks on it and then check to see if the guitar is still in tune. You should also see how easy it is to get the pickups to break up and distort/go into overdrive by playing heavy and at high volumes. You don't want pickups that will feedback like crazy when you're playing on high distortion levels.

Play softly and lightly and see how responsive the pickups are. Play really heavy and see if you knock it out of tune. You don't want a guitar that won't hold it's tunings. Too much work.

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Revision 1, Thanks to TomN and BluesSG for pointing out my mistakes.


__________________

To all the guitarists who have faced troubles, and to all the troubled guitarists... and to all the fallen heros. Hang in there, and rest in peace.

JacksonMIA
August 9th, 2005, 07:46 AM
Great write up, man. I'm sure this will prove usefull for many people, especially beginners.

socialparasite
August 9th, 2005, 12:51 PM
Metal players also play Gibson Les pauls with 60's neck just thought i would add that as well.

Eclectifish
November 15th, 2005, 03:27 PM
Part five is excellent. I only recently realized that my guitars that sustain the most when not plugged in also sustain the most when plugged in (duh!).

ValveTronix
November 21st, 2005, 01:07 PM
I had a few people on the forum and a few people at a local shop ask me about picking out guitars. I figured this would be a good place to start. Hopefully I can go all the way into repairs but thats ALOT of typing....

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Play the guitar

Play the guitar unplugged for as long as it takes to get a feel for the guitar and to hear the tones of the wood. Next, check the clearance between the bottom most points of the strings, and the top my posts of the 1st and 12th frets. This will greatly affect how the guitar plays. Relief will also change the playability; relief is the gap or bow in the fingerboard and neck. This is caused by the strings pull and/or a loose truss rod.

Look closely at finish

Check the finish for dents, scratches, cracks, and hazy clouds. Hold the guitar at an angle so the finish catches the light and the imperfections will show clearly. Also, check the back of the peg head for cracks by rubbing a finger over the joint. Older model Gibsons with a maghony neck are notorious for cracking across the grain. Always have cracks here repaired by a professional.

Test neck strength

Point the guitar towards you, with the guitar laying on a table. Support the peghead and gently pull down in the middle of the neck. You will easily be able to tell if the neck is weak. Stiff necks are preferable, since the truss rod will easily adjust the neck. Weak necks, which is usually cause by inferior woods, are nearly impossible to straighten with the truss rod. A professional regretting will usually help to straighten a neck.


Check neck relief

Place the guitar in the playing position. With your left hand fret the 1st fret of the D string. With your right hand pinkie, fret the 15th fret, and then push down on the 9th fret. If there is movement you have relief, which is desirable. If there is no movement the neck is either straight or back bowed. Back bowed necks cause fret buzz.

(upbow, slight relief, straight, back bored – picsgoing to do them latter )

Check Bolton neck joint

If the guitar has a bolt on neck you need to check the alignment of the neck. Stand the guitar up and look at the neck dead on. The outside E strings should be parallel with the edge of the fret board. Strings that are close to either side can cause the strings to fall off the edge during playing.

Inspect the nut

The nut should be tight in its slot without string tension and the slots should not be too deep or to shallow, which can cause the strings to catch or pop out of the nut. Neither should the nut slots be too wide, which allows the strings to move. I prefer to have the slots half as deep as the string, and just as wide as the string.

Check frets and inlays

Visually check for frets with pits, sharp edges, and/or loose. Inlays should also be checked for tightness. Check the height of the frets with a feeler gauge, which can be bought at your local automotive store. Most players who play with a lot of bends use taller frets, anywhere from 0.45” to 0.35”, players who rely on speed use shorter frets, from 0.35” to 0.25”.

To test the tightness of frets, pull away the high E string and lightly tap each fret with a small hammer or mallet. A solid, chunky sound means the fret is tight; a hollow sound means the fret is loose.

Test truss rod

Remove the truss rod cover and adjust the truss rod to decide if the truss rod is in working order. Do not over tighten or loosen the truss rod. You only need to move it enough to tell if it works.

Check fretboard and bridge radii

Push strings down at the 15th fret and measure approximate fretboard radius with the included radius gauge. Repeat this on the saddles. You can also tell if the center of the bridge is collapsed on tune-o-matic equipped guitars. Gibson style electric guitars usually have a fretboard radius of 10” to 12”.

Check bridge and tailpiece

Visually check the bridge and tailpiece for snugness. Make sure mounting screw are straight. Some tune-o-matics can start to lean towards the pickups from the pressure of the strings.

Check tuning keys

Detune and retune each string to make sure the tuner functions properly. Check all mounting screws for tightness.

Check all screws and bolts

Visually check all screws to make sure they are not stripped. Control cavity covers, pickup mounts, output jacks, pick guards, and strap buttons should all be visually inspected.

Check the electronics

Now plug the guitar into an amp and play. Turn all potentiometers from 0 to 10 and flip toggle switches. A good cleaning and flushing can help with pots which are stiff or crackle. Move the guitar chord in the output jack with a cable you know works. Any cutouts or noise means a problem with the jack. Open all available electronic compartments and look for shinny and tight sodering. It may be wise to invest in a small, round, outside mirror from your local auto parts store. Tape a length of string to it and use it to look inside F holes or acoustic sound holes. On vintage guitars, remove pickups and make sure they are original.

Ranger
November 21st, 2005, 01:41 PM
Thank you. I will definitely keep this in mind when checking out guitars. Btw Valve, how does one remedy a crackly pickup selector on an Epi LP? I played a few of them last weekend at GC and I loved every one but 2 out of 5 of them did that. Is that just dust in there or somethin'?

BluesSG
November 21st, 2005, 01:49 PM
great stuff valve thanks

stratman50th
November 21st, 2005, 03:50 PM
Valve, If it's ok with you, I'd like to copy this up to the Buying a guitar thread. There's already a sticky there and I don't want this to get lost.

ValveTronix
November 21st, 2005, 06:59 PM
Sure Strat go ahead I dont mind at all...

Ranger. Epiphones are notriously bad with electronics. While every guitar can have that problem, wether its a 50,000$ Les Paul or a 99$ First Act Epiphones seem to always have this problem. 99% of the time a good cleaning will help, since it is either dust, or percipitation (Im to lazy to look up the spelling). Since epis are usually pretty well made I would be suprised if it is a sodering problem.

You can try flipping the selector back and forth for a few seconds. It will clear any dirt or percipitation. Usually crackling like that without being fixed will result in cut-outs. Like, lets say your soloing away with the neck pickup, and when you switch down to the treble posistion, the sound cuts out 100%, or it has a deadend sound almost like you have the volume turned down to 2-3 on the guitar potentiometer.

I'd say try this. If it dosent work, it wouldnt cost your more than 15$ to replace the whole pickup selector with a real Gibson-USA made one.

stratman50th
November 22nd, 2005, 06:49 AM
Hey gang, I just wanted everyone to know that I merged the two threads posted by Freyr and ValveTronics. Both posts were fantastic and I didn't want to change anything.
I deleted some of you all's posts. This wasn't to cut you out, it was ment to put both threads closer together and make the reading easier. Merging threads puts them in order of date posted which is why Valve's is farther down. Please read the entire thread to get both of the thread starters full views and input.
Thanks, Strat..

ValveTronix
November 22nd, 2005, 08:44 AM
thanks strat

stratman56
November 22nd, 2005, 09:13 AM
Long overdue sticky. Good Info!

Cashew_halves
November 23rd, 2005, 07:27 AM
If its got a whammy, tune it real nice, then whammy the hell out of it, then check the tuning.

LightSeeker
November 26th, 2005, 02:13 PM
Thanks to both you guys, really good stuff from you two! Thumbs Up!

Ghostrelm
November 28th, 2005, 02:24 AM
If you see that guitar over on the shelf that looks amazing, the price is good, but you've never heard of it before (What is it, a Godin? :P) check it out, if it plays great... well, great! It it sounds great, well hell yeah!

I did that exact same thing. Godins are phenomenal... made in canada, assembled in america! I basicly got a $3000 guitar for $1000 :D

TzolkinelemenT
December 11th, 2005, 11:40 AM
Excellent thread, thanks for that contribution

metalmachine
December 21st, 2005, 11:43 PM
I take issue with what was said about actives masking guitar tone. I've found that quite the oppisite is true but alot of guitarists don't like them because they will let sloppy playing show through more than passives which you can hide behind.

fretflyer
December 21st, 2005, 11:49 PM
wow great info

Freyr
December 22nd, 2005, 09:05 AM
I take issue with what was said about actives masking guitar tone. I've found that quite the oppisite is true but alot of guitarists don't like them because they will let sloppy playing show through more than passives which you can hide behind.

Actually, I've kind of noticed somewhat of a difference there too, I personally AM a fan of active EMG's, but I've heard some really unique and expressive passive pickups. I always think of it like a drum kit... Passives are normall drums, and actives are triggerd drums.

YowhatsupT
January 9th, 2006, 08:45 PM
1. Play chords, guitar players have a tendency to sit down at a new guitar and rip, but by doing that your not actually getting how that guitar sounds.

2. TAKE OFF the pickguard and check for any modifications to the guitar.

3. Play it through a clean amp, playing it only with distortion (even if thats what you would play with) will not reveal the guitar's true sound

4. Put a strap on it at a comfortable position and see how it feels standing up. Guitars can feel way differently depending on how your using it.

5. If it has a wammy bar check to see how bad it makes the strings go out of tune

6. If it has locking tuners, make sure they actually lock, and that they don't slip

7. If it's a floyd rose make sure it stays in tune. I can't tell you how many guitars with floy roses I've played that weren't set up properly and hence would not stay in tune. (Couldn't even tune it without it going out) If that's the case, just walk away from the guitar. Its not worth your time.

Freyr
January 14th, 2006, 07:46 AM
1. Play chords, guitar players have a tendency to sit down at a new guitar and rip, but by doing that your not actually getting how that guitar sounds.

I don't think alot of newer players would be doing this, but I suppose anything is possible, haha.

I don't think a store would let you take off the pickguard either, although if they do it's a great way to see how well the guitar is made (if there is no pickguard then the pickup cavities/trem cavity). I know my ****** Yamaha SE112 looks like completle garbage under the pickup, and it sounds like complete garbage too (plays nice though).