A perfect nut.

[ValveTronix]

Ive received a few questions about nuts in the past few weeks so I thought I would post some information. A check list perhaps on the perfect nut.

1 The nut will rest clean and tight in the slot, held in place with a small amount of water-soluble glue (Elmer's or Titebond) thinned with water (3 parts water 1 part glue). There should be just enough strength to hold the nut in place.

2 Exposed edges should be sparp. The outer surface should be polished.

3 The outer E strings should not be to far from, nor too close to, the edge of the fretboard.

4 Each string should rest cleanly in its respective slot. I perfer slots that support 1/2 of the strings diameter. Slot side walls should match the string's width and diameter , then be smoothed and pollished untill the are slightly larger than the actuall string.

5 The point at which the string contacts the nut should be a gradual ramp, leaving enough material to support the string. The string should rise gradually to the nuts front edge (The strings take off point), insuring good intonation. A sharp angle will cause a weak and brittle front edge that will wear out fast.

6 The string slots should widen slightly as they approad the back edge of the nut. This will allow the strings freedom to move and angles it toward its respective tuner post.

7 String spacing should please the player!!!!

[buliwyf]

very cool valve :) when replacing nut, is it a must that i have real nut files?

[ValveTronix]

No of course not! I used a few sets when I was employed doing repair work. But ive never gotten around to buying my own set. I use a popsicle stick with a length of string the size I want.

If im setting up the nut for .11s I use .11 size wound strings, .08 I use .08 wound strings.

For the G B and E strings I just use an exacto knife

[ValveTronix]

You should get some nut files and do it right if you wanna do this to all your guitars :)

I stopped using exacto knifes, razor blades, saws, etc awhile ago..and it's so nice to have it perfectly precise now.

Hopefully you file (cut) at an angle. Any excessive gapping could cause sustain/tone loss....and worst of all....tunning problems.

Ive done probally 75 or more guitars without any use of files, which inclueds all of my guitars, lutes, mandolins, and basses, and cant see much of a change in my work from guitar where I made the nut using nut files.

I wouldnt say nut files are the RIGHT or best way to do it, if the work is just as percise without them.

[ValveTronix]

seeing some of valve's work, the guitars hes made, id say he knows what hes doing. this is pretty good actually, ive got a cheap acoustic i want to lower the strings a tad on, so il bear this stuff in mind
If your lowering the whole of the strings, you can just remove the nut and either sand the bottom of the nut lighting on a flat surface, or scrape any glue, paint, or wood that is under the nut.

[LesPaulCustom]

If your lowering the whole of the strings, you can just remove the nut and either sand the bottom of the nut lighting on a flat surface, or scrape any glue, paint, or wood that is under the nut.

Good point Vavle. Sometimes, this is a prefered method so there isn't too much tone loss by excessive grooves.