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View Full Version : Installing Strap lock buttons and Repairing Loose Strap Buttons


stratman50th
May 9th, 2006, 04:14 PM
There is a thread about once a week with people asking how to fix a strap button that has worked loose or fallen out. The same goes for those who are trying to install the Schaller/Fender strap locks, and find the screw that comes with the lock is too small for the existing hole.
I’m going to start off by explaining what I do and why, then I’ll leave the thread open for the toothpick crowd. Once we get enough different ways of repairing or resolving the issue, we’ll move the thread into Trade Secrets and you all can answer the threads as they come up, or point them to this thread.

When you purchase Schaller strap locks, they come with the button, and the screw that attaches the button to the guitar body. It has been my experience, that when you try and replace the original equipment strap buttons on Gibsons, and some Fenders, the screw that comes with the lock frequently does not fit in the existing hole. (Those are the only brands I have personal experience with. This may apply to all brands) Those buttons are secured using a course thread screw. The Schallers come with a fine thread screw. In other words, the existing hole is too small for the new hardware. The existing buttons do not work with the new strap locks because they are fluted at the top in order to hold the strap on. (Higher end Fenders come equipped with these strap lock buttons, and are ready for the strap locks. Fender owns Schaller). The Schaller buttons are of equal size top and bottom. I have heard of some people grinding them to fit, but I prefer not to damage or alter the stock hardware.
The method I use to solve this will work as a repair on a strap button that’s loose, or has pulled out of the wood. I think this provides a cleaner, more professional, longer lasting repair.
I use plastic wood for the install/repair. You can buy it in any home improvement store in the US. I have been told it is available in the UK and Canada as well. Here is a link so you can see what the packaging looks like:
http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?product_id=69

It is solvent based, so it cures when the air hits it. It is as solid or better than wood after it cures completely. It does have to be stirred well as both the plastic wood compound and the curing agent is in the same can. It can be re-used if you put the lid on tight.

The job:
After removing the screw, I use a toothpick to pick up some of the plastic wood compound out of the container. Then I run it down into the hole, working it around the outside diameter. I fill all the existing tapped threads with the filler. I do not fill the entire hole up with the product. I leave enough of the hole, full length, to avoid re-drilling a pilot hole. I let the plastic wood cure for 24 hours. After that, it’s ready. You can install the new strap lock button, or replace the stock button if it has fallen out.
Since this acts like real wood, if you sell the guitar, you can re-install the stock strap button and keep the lock button for your next guitar.

SKEETER
May 9th, 2006, 07:02 PM
I have been fixing wood screw holes for years by putting elmers or tightbond in them then breaking off toothpicks in them and running the screw in. Works like a champ, never had one fail yet, Quick and dirty. I break the toothpick in half and put the large end into the hole first so it tapers toward the opening, normally I can get both halves into a strap lock hole. One is likely enough in most cases. I can always use the guitar immediately, I haven't had to wait for one to dry yet. I have been out playing and had a screw strip out and just used a toothpick without the glue and that will work just fine, I just add the security of the glue when I fix them at home.
Also, a trick with straplocks, with the part that goes onto the strap. I play out quite a bit and hate when the nut works loose from the straplock. I solve that problem by using some of my wifes fingernail polish as loctite. It works well. I do the same thing with guitar and amp jacks, a little fingernail polish on the threads after the nut is tight keeps it there. Just don't get it on any finished surface, it eats paint and clear REALLY fast.

mjshailes
May 10th, 2006, 02:09 PM
no not toothpicks these dont always work

my best mate used skeeters way and ended up with the strap button screws coming out of the holes which resulted in his Gibson Les Paul Slash model to fall from his strap mid Slash style verticle solo to november rain which ended up with the guitar lying on the floor four feet below him(he was on stage at a gig) with a neck that was broke into three peices

proffesional musicians such as Paul Gilbert use a matchstick dipped in woodglue by the tip to fill the hole(if one doesnt pack i tight enough add another) belive me i have schaller straplocks fitted to all of my guitars and i have used this technique and the straplocks are all stronger than the factory fitted ones

Placeholder
May 10th, 2006, 02:17 PM
I would imagine that a matchstick dipped in glue wouldnt be anymore effective than a toothpick dipped in glue..

The toothpick is denser than the matchstick. Both should be just fine though.

shiggity
May 10th, 2006, 02:24 PM
I use a mixture of woodglue and saw dust and fill the hole, I sometimes leave a starter hole for when I put the screw back in, But I usually just drill the hole out with a small drill bit.

mjshailes
May 10th, 2006, 02:26 PM
a matchstick is rougher which means the woodglue bonds it and the wood of the body better

i.e. you cnt glue a piece of polised marble to a bit of concrette (where the marble represants the shinny smooth surface of a toothpick)

peaceman
May 11th, 2006, 04:57 PM
has anyone tried the boston strap locks? what do think of them? i swapped to them from the dunlop ones and they havent let me down yet.

SKEETER
May 11th, 2006, 06:18 PM
I would imagine that a matchstick dipped in glue wouldnt be anymore effective than a toothpick dipped in glue..

The toothpick is denser than the matchstick. Both should be just fine though.


Toothpicks are just more common, and a standard item in a bar for a quick fix. I prefer them to matchsticks at home simply because they are tapered, and if you put the fat end in first it is easier to get the screw started.

Dekayz200
May 11th, 2006, 08:14 PM
The plastic wood material provides a stronger bond as opposed to the "toothpick" fix.

Both will adequately do the job, but if I had a high dollar guitar, I would want it done right versus how quickly I can use the guitar again...

stratman50th
May 12th, 2006, 05:40 AM
The one thing I do forget to mention is that in my opinion, the toothpick fix will get you back up and running in an emergency, gig, but I never looked at it as a finished product.

SKEETER
May 13th, 2006, 05:24 PM
It is indeed a finished product. it permanantly fixes the problem. And, it isn't like anyone is ever going to look into a strap hole and say "damn! this guy put a toothpick in there instead of filling and redrilling the hole!"
I have been fixing them that way for probably .......... hmmm 30 years or more, and again, never had it fail. Also works for other stuff, like pickguard holes. I have taken the strap buttons back off of ones that I have repaired years earlier and had them still hold their integrity. Work smart, not hard.

stratman50th
May 15th, 2006, 07:48 PM
It is indeed a finished product. it permanantly fixes the problem. And, it isn't like anyone is ever going to look into a strap hole and say "damn! this guy put a toothpick in there instead of filling and redrilling the hole!"
I have been fixing them that way for probably .......... hmmm 30 years or more, and again, never had it fail. Also works for other stuff, like pickguard holes. I have taken the strap buttons back off of ones that I have repaired years earlier and had them still hold their integrity. Work smart, not hard.
This is why I started this thread.;) Different ways to do the job.
Nothing new for awhile so I'll move it now.