sharp frets

[ckmoose04]

When i do a slide on my guitar the frets stick out just a tiny bit on the bottom of the neck and cut my hand. Has anyone ever had this problem or know what to do to fix it?

[Peeb]

Here's how:
http://members.shaw.ca/wilkatguitars/git_tips4.htm

I need to do this, too.

[flamin-gitaur]

That is a pretty typical problem that can happen to just about any guitar. One big cause of the problem it the wood drying out and shrinking. If you live in a dry climate it is more prone to happen, especially during the winter when heaters are running all the time. Before you try filing anything I would recommend trying to humidify your guitar. You can do this by placing a DAMPIT (http://www.whitsettguitarworks.com/dampit.htm) in your guitar case along with your guitar. This will gradually and safely humidify your guitar by replacing the moisture in your guitar. The neck of an electric is most likely to be affected because this is generally the only part of an electric that doesn't have a finish on it. If the dampit isn't successful then I would go for the file method, but only as a last resort, cus the it is permanent.

[TomN]

It's not necessarilly a sign of a bad fret job, unless it came off the line that way.

But it's a common problem with all guitars, all makes, all models and any price range. Wood is organic and changes it's shape and size regularly. So any guitar, even after a perfect fret job can end up with the fret ends sticking out if the conditions are right for it to happen.

It's as easy to fix as it is common. You just need to be a little confident in your handymanshipness.
You need primarily two types of files.
I'll start with the "Right" tools that a luthier would use.
First you would need a Fret Beveling file. This is a block of wood or plastic designed to run along the side of the neck with a file that is mounted into the block at an angle. The block rests on the frets and the file runs along the side of the neck. Hold the block one way and it files the ends of the frets down so they are even with the edge of the neck. Flip the block over and now the file is at an angle and will put the bevel in the fret. Do that on both sides as needed.

The you need a fret end dressing file. With this you will go fret by fret, end by end removing any burrs or sharp pointyness as you go along. You need to be a little more careful here because if you slip you can gouge the fret or fretboard. But the beveling with the bevel block is pretty idiot resistant.

All these tools and instructions can be purchased at www.stewmac.com for more than they are worth. There is also an ebay seller, selling some fret files as well.

But if you want to just use tools from a Hardware store, get a fine toothed 10" mill file and remove the handle if it has one.
Then use that for bring the fret ends even to the edge of the board and for adding the bevel.
It's really easy to bring the ends in this way, but adding a consistent bevel is a little harder as you don't have a guide.
It is possible however to make your own guide from a block of wood. With a tablesaw you cut a groove in the block of wood at the correct angle and glue the mill file inside the groove. Cheap, easy. homemade Bevel File.

Now for the fret end dressing. Buy one of those needle file sets. Use these to remove the burrs. I suggest you use the triangle one and the flat one. But you need to be more careful here.
On a genuine Fret end dressing file, one edge of the file is smooth. You use that side to ride against the neck so you don't mar it.
But there is no smooth edge on a needle file set.
You can grind one if you have a bench grinder. But you probably don't. Sp be very careful.

I would also suggest that you protect the fret board if just using needlefiles. You can use low tack masking tape, or painters tape.
Or you can make a little fret protector thingy.
Take a sode can and cut a small rectangle out of it. It should be a bit longer then the fretboard and wide enough to cover the fretboard on each side of the fret you are working on.
Then with a knife cut a slot in the peice of can for the fret to go through. Tape this over the area, bend it down over the edge of the fretboard and you will be able to work on the fret end without worrying about marring the fretboard.

Stewmac also sells those things premade on their site. They come in realy handy when doing any kind of fret work.

A guitar luthier will do this for you. But he could charge as much as $75.00

[t_shirtsnjeans]

Yep, humidity. I made some humidifiers for all my guitars because of the dry climate and ALL of them sucked the moisture right up and the fret sharpness went away! I found that when the moisture content is just right when I run my hand up and down the edges of the neck at the frets and when I can't feel the frets then the humidity level is just right. You will also notice a tonal difference too!

Home made humidifer for electric guitars as well as acoustic: Prescription bottles with label removed. Drill several small holes in the bottle. Get a piece of cellulose sponge and cut it larger than the bottle. Wet the sponge and squeeze the excess water out and put it in the bottle and throw it in your guitar case. You now have a humidifier for less than 25c. Occassionally you will have to was the sponge with soap and water, then throw it in the microwave for 20-30 seconds to kill of bacteria and mold every couple of times you re-wet it to keep it from getting that musty odor.
I had some pics on another thread, but here they are again:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y7/gitpikker58/MedicinebottlehumidifiersSmall.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y7/gitpikker58/100_1634Small.jpg

[Peeb]

Just bought a cheapie triangular shaped little file from Lowes and messed with my frets. Much smoother.

I got a little sloppy and took a little wood, but hey, it's a $71.00 guitar to begin with.

I'm happy.